Quick 'n Easy Heavy Duty Specialty Adhesive Remover
Quick 'n Easy chemically penetrates, softens and lifts adhesive
away from surfaces, so the adhesive easily wipes away with
a plastic squeegee. To perform as expected, Quick 'n Easy
must be sprayed directly on the adhesive, after you have removed
the vinyl by heating it, using either a heat gun, heat lamp
or hair dryer and then peeling the vinyl away *. Although
a blade scraper is not recommended with Quick 'n Easy (to
prevent surface damage), if you decide to use one, always
put a new blade in the scraper and draw it over a piece of
220 grit or finer sandpaper to put a slight curl on the edge.
This trick helps prevent gouging of the paint or surface.
A really fast way to remove vinyl, especially on old faces:
Use hot water and starting at one corner, slowly peel-back
the vinyl as you pour the hot water on the vinyl - an even
faster way is to use hot water with a spray washer (if you
don't have one in your shop, they are available at car washes).
Difficult to Remove Adhesives/Glues
Adhesives on today's vinyl are so diverse they act differently
when removing. For example, adhesives used on imported vehicles
frequently utilize a special chemical base and/or are applied
with varying thickness. High-performance vinyl usually leaves
little to no adhesive when removed - intermediate vinyl is
especially noted for leaving more adhesive behind. And the
age of the vinyl also plays a role in the difficulty and time
Spray-on and saturate the adhesive before attempting
to remove with a plastic spreader or scraper. Usually,
by the time you spray and saturate one side of the adhesive,
you can go right back to the other side and start removal.
However, if the adhesive is especially thick, allow 120 seconds
(2-minutes) to 150 seconds penetration time before removing
with a spreader/squeegee. In stubborn cases, a repeat application
may be necessary. Another trick is to spray Quick 'n Easy
directly on the adhesive and allow it to soak for a minute
or two and then immediately spray-on another wet coat, let
sit for one minute and then squeegee off. For faster penetration,
you can lightly abrade the adhesive surface with sandpaper
prior to application of fluid.
If surface temperature is above 68 Degrees F., evaporation
is quicker and you won't get proper penetration/loosening.
Surface temperature should be cool (approximately 68 Degrees
F. or less) and do not apply Quick 'n Easy in direct sunlight.
Another trick is to cover the removal area with plastic sheeting
after applying the Quick 'n Easy to slow down evaporation
and reduce the amount of applications needed to achieve full
On old, brittle adhesive or thicker adhesive … This situation
usually requires 2 or 3 repeat applications. Again, directly
saturate the adhesive (do not pour Quick 'n Easy on a cloth,
thereby saturating the cloth, not the adhesive!). Drawing
a plastic razor blade at a 45 degree angle across the saturated
adhesive will aid removal.
Removing Large Adhesive Areas & Around Rivets and Seams
Solution: Around rivets,
seams and large adhesive areas, after the area has been saturated
with Quick 'n Easy, use a pressure washer to blow off the
adhesive that's been softened with Quick 'n Easy. Very fast
Slight Film or Residue Remains
|Solution: After following
removal procedures on product label, wash the surface area using
The Decal-Graphic Solution or any good, water-based cleaner
and wipe with a clean cloth or preferably, a paper
Stained or Damaged Surface
Solution: Removing old
vinyl has its hazards but surface damage is usually the result
of improper procedures. Quick 'n Easy should not be left on
the surface generally longer than 120 seconds (2-minutes)
and certainly no longer than 150 seconds. Do not use on non-cured,
fresh paint. Strictly follow all cure time schedules supplied
by paint manufacturer(s). Always neutralize surface (wash
with water or Decal-Graphic Solution) as Direction #8 instructs
on product label. Quick 'n Easy is perfect on a variety of
surfaces including: vinyl, plastics, fiberglass, cured auto
paint finishes, glass etc. but it will damage latex, Styrofoam
or styrene plastics and you should exercise caution when applying
to some acrylic plastics. It is not recommended for use on
clothing, fabric, upholstery. On all surfaces, always test
a hidden area before attempting to use on any exposed area.
A Few Other Uses For Quick 'n Easy
Cleans Lexan plastic - will not damage plastic like citrus
& other formulas
Removes pitch, tree sap, oil, grease, bugs, window tint adhesive
residue & more
Blends touch-up paint spots & scratches - removes fresh paint
over-spray off surfaces
Removes hot-glue residue, wax, sealants, surface discoloration,
paper price stickers, duct tape, labels & more
Cleans work areas and work benches, marker & pen ink, crayon,
lipstick & more
The Decal-Graphic Solution Application Fluid
Vinyl backing is comprised of millions of tiny beads of adhesive.
These adhesive beads have a thin skin or shell. Decal-Graphic
Solution chemically softens this shell - then, when pressure
is applied (pressure sensitive vinyl), Decal-Graphic Solution
helps burst the adhesive beads, resulting in a more uniform
flow of adhesive across the substrate.
In addition, Decal-Graphic Solution's special chemical ingredients:
1) clean substrates of surface contaminants that discourage
bonding … 2) "float" the graphic for positioning (straightening)
… 3) create a superior bond, even on low energy surfaces such
as cold glass. Also, after bond is completed, by spraying
(saturating) the cover tape with Decal-Graphic Solution and
pulling the cover tape at a 45 Degree angle back over itself,
the Decal-Graphic Solution easily releases the cover tape
with no vinyl lifting or peelback.
Why Not Use Soap & Water?
Soap and water creates foam that becomes trapped under the
vinyl, resulting in bubbles/wrinkles in the vinyl. Many detergents
contain properties unsuitable for the adhesive beads on vinyl
backing, thereby causing adhesion problems. Soap and water
can not effectively clean surfaces of residues such as oil-derivative
solvents, waxes or silicones - a contaminated surface results
in vinyl lifting and lengthens bonding time, sometimes by
hours. Soap and water limit the temperature range in which
you can work - the Decal-Graphic Solution has proven itself
in high humidity and in temperatures from 15 Degrees to 140
Why Not Use Solvents, Window Cleaners
or General Purpose Cleaners?
Oil-derivative solvents leave an incompatible residue on
the application surface, resulting in poor adhesion. Window
cleaners usually contain ammonia which will deteriorate the
vinyl and the adhesive. Ammonia attacks poly-vinyl which results
in premature aging of the graphic and ammonia attacks paint
surfaces. General purpose cleaners often contain silicone
or other chemicals which cause poor adhesion. Solvents and
cleaners become trapped under the vinyl, causing mold or mildew
to form, resulting in bubbles, lifting of the vinyl and vinyl
Why Not "Dry" Application?
Granted, smaller jobs sometimes do not require a "wet" application.
But today's graphics being so expensive - one mistake in dry
application can result in a much higher job cost. And experience
shows that most applications with the Decal-Graphic Solution
result in a 40 to 60% savings in labor time. Indeed, many
"dry" jobs that normally require two people can be done in
less time with no mistakes by one person if Decal-Graphic
Solution is used. And some situations clearly call for wet
application: clear or translucent film application, larger
graphics on glass, critical alignments, hot surfaces and windy
conditions. Decal-Graphic Solution is a state-of-the-art solution
to vinyl application and a very low cost form of insurance
in a bottle!
Solution To: Vinyl Won't Stick
This can occur if the surface is contaminated or dirty -
if a shop rag or other cloth is used to wipe surface - or
if the application fluid has become contaminated.
If transferring Decal-Graphic Solution fluid to another new,
empty bottle (e.g., pouring economy gallons into quart bottle),
shake well before transfer. Use only new, unused spray bottles
or old, clean Decal-Graphic Solution bottles. Clean the surface
well with Decal-Graphic Solution fluid and common paper towel
only! (Other solvents/ cleaners and shop towels, even if they've
been laundered, simply create bonding problems!)
Solution To: Bubbles/Wrinkles After
Bubbles occur for various reasons - and they occur more frequently
with dry applications or by using an inferior wet application
fluid such as soap and water. Static-induced bubbles will
disappear within a few days but bubbles that appear days or
weeks later after application can be the result of out-gassing,
a condition caused by moisture or solvents trying to get out
from under the vinyl. Remember: on painted surfaces, the paint
has to be totally cured and plastic faces should be pre-sealed
on both sides to prevent these problems.
We contend that oil-derivative solvents should never be used
to prep surfaces. The Decal-Graphic Solution has been formulated
to prep surfaces without leaving incompatible residues. Another
cause of bubbles is that not enough application fluid is used.
Use Decal-Graphic Solution fluid liberally - flood surface
before applying graphic. The Decal-Graphic Solution fluid
is formulated to squeegee-out completely, while helping to
keep air from becoming trapped under the vinyl.
TIP: If you still have
bubbles or wrinkles, simply puncture the bubbles and press
the air out the hole. You should press wrinkles firmly with
the back of your fingernail, from the center outward to
the edge. Try to spread out the wrinkle and redistribute
the vinyl. Depending on how successful you are, you may
be forced to put a clean slice in the middle and overlap
the edges, or butt the edges together with a very careful
Solution To: Bubbles in Larger Graphic
(e.g. 10-Foot Graphic)
Again, not enough fluid used. Apply fluid liberally and squeegee-out
with firm, point-of-pressure contact from center outwards
to edges. Sometimes, a small dot of dish detergent on the
wrinkled area (and none on the adjacent areas) can help work-out
the wrinkle. Keep in mind that fluid on a vertical surface
tends to run off, versus a flat surface. Also, spraying Decal-Graphic
Solution on the glue side of the vinyl while peeling off the
backing tape, in addition to liberal application of fluid
to the surface, will help with larger graphics.
Solution To: Protective Cover Tape
(Mask) Doesn't Release
When this occurs, it usually is the result of either old
tape with a short shelf life or a high tac tape. Spray (wet)
the cover tape with the same Decal-Graphic Solution fluid
(after the vinyl is bonded to the surface). Let the Decal-Graphic
Solution break the cover's grip on the vinyl prior to removing
the cover. Allow to thoroughly soak the cover tape for 2-minutes
- now, remove the cover by pulling tape back over itself at
a 45 degree angle - if the cover does not remove, re-wet the
tape and repeat procedure.
Solution To: Vinyl Flipping Up and
Sticking To Itself, Resulting in Damaged Graphic
As you peel-off the backing tape from the vinyl, spray the
Decal-Graphic Solution fluid (liberally) directly on the glue
side - You can actually fold the treated vinyl, glue side
to glue side and it will not stick!
Rust-Prep Rust Converter
course, read & follow directions on label but … basically,
this product is easy to use:
wire brush to remove any loose rust scale or paint flakes
- then clean surface with water-based cleaner.
a light coat of Rust Prep… then …
20 to 30 minutes for rust to convert to zinc phosphate …
any powder residue that appears on the surface with a water-damp
cloth (Do not rinse residue with a water hose). Note: This
powder residue is the mineral salts that actuated the rust
process. Let dry thoroughly.
is now ready to be sealed, either with paint, primer/sealer
or body filler. Note: must be sealed within 24 hours or
surface rust may reoccur.
Aluma-1 Scratch-Free Wheel/Metal Polish
Basically, most metal polishes offer an older technology
that achieves shine through the use of fine abrasive (e.g.
jewelers rouge) - they offer either no protection (the shine
is not long lasting, resulting in frequent re-applications!)
or some protection by means of a second (or third!) product,
plus additional application steps!
Aluma-1 Scratch-Free Wheel/Metal Polish achieves it's high
luster by means of a unique advance in liquid chemical technology
- in addition, the same formula (one product, one step!) contains
special acrylic polymers that are deposited as a durable,
optically clear coating that eliminates the time, expense
and work of redoing the surface as often.
New Surfaces vs Older Surfaces in Bad Condition
Aluma-1 is primarily for a newer wheel or surface in good
condition - it contains no acids, ammonia or grit that will
scratch or damage a new wheel or finish. Older wheels (surfaces)
in poor condition may require an abrasive to remove stains
and restore luster.
For Wheel or Finish in BAD Condition: First, remove any crusty
dirt etc., with detergent and water or wheel cleaner - Dry
wheel thoroughly - then we recommend: Use 4-Ott (#0000) or
finer - plain steel wool - along with Aluma-1 as directed
to easily clean, shine and protect even the grungiest wheel!
(Do Not Use Steel Wool On A New or Clear-Coated Wheel!) The
truth is: there is simply no chemical compromise for both
a new finish and an older stained finish - if it's new, abrasives
will scratch - if old, abrasives may be necessary to remove
stains. Aluma-1 alone or in conjunction with Extra-Fine Steel
Wool achieves outstanding results!
Wet Application and Removal
Very Important! … Aluma-1 goes on wet … and must be removed
while still wet as directed on the label. Do not allow Aluma-1
to dry before removing. When removed wet, all that remains
is a long lasting, barrier shine.
Plastics, Fiberglass and Other Uses
Great for boats & airplanes: outperforms fiberglass polishes
& fiberglass rubbing compounds, plus it seals the fiberglass
(goes on wet, comes off wet) … Perfect for buffing-out hard
plastics, especially with a buffing wheel: clears cloudy Lexan
toppers & Lexan boat windows, cycle ferrings, tail-lights,
spoilers etc. … Removes oxidized paint - removes paint scuffs
(e.g. tree limb scuffs against fender), finger-nail scratches
… Good on plastic hubcaps … With #0000 steel wool, even removes
water spots from glass! … Great on: jewelry, counters, shower
fixtures, guns, sporting equipment etc.
WOW: The Ultimate Detailer
WOW works on any hard surface but … you must spray just a
light mist on the surface (it's not a case where: a little
bit works good, so more works better!) … Then spread product
with a clean terry towel as per label directions (not a shop
towel, which may contain incompatible residues, even if its
Do not use WOW on a soft-waxed surface or oil-based wax surface.
WOW is not compatible with oil and simply smears the soft
wax around. Again, WOW is for hard surfaces, not soft (wax)
surfaces. If humidity is especially high, cut back on application
and use in sunlight.
Body Shop Uses
silicones or wax - Works on fresh paint - Does not affect
& effective on all paint finishes, including clear coats
final glazes for a higher, brighter finish
after a fresh paint buff-out - Leaves rest of vehicle looking
as good as area just repaired
substitute for silicone lubricants commonly used with over-spray
formula safely cleans window tint
product sprays-on, wipes-off dust, finger and hand prints,
smudges etc. on all exterior & interior hard surfaces
1001 MPC Power Cleaner/Degreaser
Although 1001 MPC (Multi-Purpose Cleaner) is biodegradable
and 100% environmentally safe, it is very strong. Read the
entire label directions before using. Most cleaning jobs do
not require using full strength - generally, only extreme
conditions require full strength or a dilution of up to 2
to 3 parts with water.
Stubborn cleaning jobs can be overcome in one of 3 ways:
1) Use 1001 MPC full strength ... 2) Let 1001 MPC penetrate
(soak) longer ... 3) Scrub surface briskly with nylon brush
after soaking of 1001. Although 1001 can be diluted with either
cold or warm, hot water and 1001 produces spectacular cleaning
results! 1001 is quite effective with a steam cleaner or pressure
washer, using either hot or cold water.
1001 has numerous marine uses. Because of its non-hazardous
nature, 1001 does not require Coast Guard certification for
use in a ship's store, on board vessels, because its characteristics
do not represent sufficient hazard to be considered a dangerous
article under 46-PFA-141. 1001 MPC cleans marine sails, canvas,
hardwood and metals safely and quickly. It is an excellent
and totally safe bilge cleaner. It removes algae, fish oils
and scum lines without harming aluminum, plastic, chrome or
Industrial uses for 1001 are varied. It allows full utilization
of plant manpower - dramatically reduces down time - allows
hot work to continue in areas adjacent to those being cleaned
with 1001 MPC - surfaces can be cleaned, gas freed and prepared
for paints or coatings in the same application.
A few helpful dilutions: All-Purpose Cleaner: Use
1 part 1001 MPC to 40 parts water (3 oz. to a gallon of water).
Tree Sap (pine needle sap), Bugs On Paint Surface:
Use a quarter of MPC to 1 gallon of water. Wet a clean cloth,
make one or two swipes with cloth and then immediately rinse
thoroughly with clean water, then dry with a terri towel.
Stains From Rugs, Upholstery & Carpets: Use full strength
or 1 part 1001 MPC to 3 to 1 part water. Spray on & blot up
the stain. Next, use nylon brush or towels, for finishing
touches. Always start with a light solution & then add more
1001 MPC if it seems needed to do the job.
Paint Over-Spray From Vehicle: If vehicle paint is
1 year or older, use 1001 full strength. Pour 1001 MPC onto
towel, wipe-off over-spray, then rinse thoroughly with clean
water, then dry with a terri towel.
Prep Wash - Fish Eye Preventative: Mix 1 part 1001
MPC to 4 or 5 parts water. Mist (spray) on surface - let soak
for 30 to 60 seconds for oxidation; 4 to 6 minutes for polymer
sealants. Wipe with water and rinse. Dry with a clean cloth.
Surface is now ready to paint or polish.
Call: (800) 545-8624 for free Automotive, Industrial, Marine
& Household "Use & General Dilution Chart"