Tips & Tricks

 

Quick 'n Easy Heavy Duty Specialty Adhesive Remover

Quick 'n Easy chemically penetrates, softens and lifts adhesive away from surfaces, so the adhesive easily wipes away with a plastic or rubber squeegee. To perform as expected, Quick 'n Easy must be sprayed directly on the adhesive, after you have removed the vinyl by heating it, using either a heat gun, heat lamp or hair dryer and then peeling the vinyl away *. Although a blade scraper is not recommended with Quick 'n Easy (to prevent surface damage), if you decide to use one, always put a new blade in the scraper and draw it over a piece of 220 grit or finer sandpaper to put a slight curl on the edge. This trick helps prevent gouging of the paint or surface.

* TIP: A really fast way to remove vinyl, especially on old faces: Use hot water and starting at one corner, slowly peel-back the vinyl as you pour the hot water on the vinyl - an even faster way is to use hot water with a spray washer (if you don't have one in your shop, they are available at car washes).

Difficult to Remove Adhesives/Glues

Adhesives on today's vinyl are so diverse they act differently when removing. For example, adhesives used on imported vehicles frequently utilize a special chemical base and/or are applied with varying thickness. High-performance vinyl usually leaves little to no adhesive when removed - intermediate vinyl is especially noted for leaving more adhesive behind. And the age of the vinyl also plays a role in the difficulty and time of removal.

Solutions:

Spray-on and saturate the adhesive before attempting to remove with a plastic spreader or scraper. Usually, by the time you spray and saturate one side of the adhesive, you can go right back to the other side and start removal. However, if the adhesive is especially thick, allow 120 seconds (2-minutes) to 150 seconds penetration time before removing with a spreader/squeegee. In stubborn cases, a repeat application may be necessary. Another trick is to spray Quick 'n Easy directly on the adhesive and allow it to soak for a minute or two and then immediately spray-on another wet coat, let sit for one minute and then squeegee off. For faster penetration, you can lightly abrade the adhesive surface with sandpaper prior to application of fluid.

If surface temperature is above 68 Degrees F., evaporation is quicker and you won't get proper penetration/loosening. Surface temperature should be cool (approximately 68 Degrees F. or less) and do not apply Quick 'n Easy in direct sunlight. Another trick is to cover the removal area with plastic sheeting after applying the Quick 'n Easy to slow down evaporation and reduce the amount of applications needed to achieve full removal.

On old, brittle adhesive or thicker adhesive … This situation usually requires 2 or 3 repeat applications. Again, directly saturate the adhesive (do not pour Quick 'n Easy on a cloth, thereby saturating the cloth, not the adhesive!). Drawing a plastic razor blade at a 45 degree angle across the saturated adhesive will aid removal.

Removing Large Adhesive Areas & Around Rivets and Seams

Solution: Around rivets, seams and large adhesive areas, after the area has been saturated with Quick 'n Easy, use a pressure washer to blow off the adhesive that's been softened with Quick 'n Easy. Very fast and clean!

Slight Film or Residue Remains

Solution: After following removal procedures on product label, wash the surface area using The Decal-Graphic Solution or any good, water-based cleaner and wipe with a clean cloth or preferably, a paper towel.

Stained or Damaged Surface

Solution: Removing old vinyl has its hazards but surface damage is usually the result of improper procedures. Quick 'n Easy should not be left on the surface generally longer than 120 seconds (2-minutes) and certainly no longer than 150 seconds. Do not use on non-cured, fresh paint. Strictly follow all cure time schedules supplied by paint manufacturer(s). Always neutralize surface (wash with water or Decal-Graphic Solution) as Direction #8 instructs on product label. Quick 'n Easy is perfect on a variety of surfaces including: vinyl, plastics, fiberglass, cured auto paint finishes, glass etc. but it will damage latex, Styrofoam or styrene plastics and you should exercise caution when applying to some acrylic plastics. It is not recommended for use on clothing, fabric, upholstery. On all surfaces, always test a hidden area before attempting to use on any exposed area.

 

A Few Other Uses For Quick 'n Easy

Cleans Lexan plastic - will not damage plastic like citrus & other formulas ... Cleans gummed-up rubber/metal conveyor rollers, belts, blades
Removes pitch, tree sap, oil, grease, bugs, window tint adhesive residue & more ... Degreases machinery/equipment - Removes oils, grease, sludge
Blends touch-up paint spots & scratches - removes fresh paint over-spray off surfaces 
Removes hot-glue residue, wax, sealants, surface discoloration, paper price stickers, duct tape, labels  ... Removes surface stains, discolorations, scuff marks
Removes fork-lift scuff marks from coated floors with no damage to floors ... Cleans work areas and work benches, marker & pen ink, crayon, lipstick & more

 

The Decal-Graphic Solution Application Fluid

Vinyl backing is comprised of millions of tiny beads of adhesive. These adhesive beads have a thin skin or shell. Decal-Graphic Solution chemically softens this shell - then, when pressure is applied (pressure sensitive vinyl), Decal-Graphic Solution helps burst the adhesive beads, resulting in a more uniform flow of adhesive across the substrate.

In addition, Decal-Graphic Solution's special chemical ingredients: 1) clean substrates of surface contaminants that discourage bonding … 2) "float" the graphic for positioning (straightening) … 3) create a superior bond, even on low energy surfaces such as cold glass. Also, after bond is completed, by spraying (saturating) the cover tape with Decal-Graphic Solution and pulling the cover tape at a 45 Degree angle back over itself, the Decal-Graphic Solution easily releases the cover tape with no vinyl lifting or peelback.

Why Not Use Soap & Water?

Soap and water creates foam that becomes trapped under the vinyl, resulting in bubbles/wrinkles in the vinyl. Many detergents contain properties unsuitable for the adhesive beads on vinyl backing, thereby causing adhesion problems. Soap and water can not effectively clean surfaces of residues such as oil-derivative solvents, waxes or silicones - a contaminated surface results in vinyl lifting and lengthens bonding time, sometimes by hours. Soap and water limit the temperature range in which you can work - the Decal-Graphic Solution has proven itself in high humidity and in temperatures from 15 Degrees to 140 Degrees.

Why Not Use Solvents, Window Cleaners or General Purpose Cleaners?

Oil-derivative solvents leave an incompatible residue on the application surface, resulting in poor adhesion. Window cleaners usually contain ammonia which will deteriorate the vinyl and the adhesive. Ammonia attacks poly-vinyl which results in premature aging of the graphic and ammonia attacks paint surfaces. General purpose cleaners often contain silicone or other chemicals which cause poor adhesion. Solvents and cleaners become trapped under the vinyl, causing mold or mildew to form, resulting in bubbles, lifting of the vinyl and vinyl deterioration.

Why Not "Dry" Application?

Granted, smaller jobs sometimes do not require a "wet" application. But today's graphics being so expensive - one mistake in dry application can result in a much higher job cost. And experience shows that most applications with the Decal-Graphic Solution result in a 40 to 60% savings in labor time. Indeed, many "dry" jobs that normally require two people can be done in less time with no mistakes by one person if Decal-Graphic Solution is used. And some situations clearly call for wet application: clear or translucent film application, larger graphics on glass, critical alignments, hot surfaces and windy conditions. Decal-Graphic Solution is a state-of-the-art solution to vinyl application and a very low cost form of insurance in a bottle!

Helpful Tips

Solution To: Vinyl Won't Stick

This can occur if the surface is contaminated or dirty - if a shop rag or other cloth is used to wipe surface - or if the application fluid has become contaminated.

If transferring Decal-Graphic Solution fluid to another new, empty bottle (e.g., pouring economy gallons into quart bottle), shake well before transfer. Use only new, unused spray bottles or old, clean Decal-Graphic Solution bottles. Clean the surface well with Decal-Graphic Solution fluid and common paper towel only! (Other solvents/ cleaners and shop towels, even if they've been laundered, simply create bonding problems!)

Solution To: Bubbles/Wrinkles After Vinyl Applied

Bubbles occur for various reasons - and they occur more frequently with dry applications or by using an inferior wet application fluid such as soap and water. Static-induced bubbles will disappear within a few days but bubbles that appear days or weeks later after application can be the result of out-gassing, a condition caused by moisture or solvents trying to get out from under the vinyl. Remember: on painted surfaces, the paint has to be totally cured and plastic faces should be pre-sealed on both sides to prevent these problems.

We contend that oil-derivative solvents should never be used to prep surfaces. The Decal-Graphic Solution has been formulated to prep surfaces without leaving incompatible residues. Another cause of bubbles is that not enough application fluid is used. Use Decal-Graphic Solution fluid liberally - flood surface before applying graphic. The Decal-Graphic Solution fluid is formulated to squeegee-out completely, while helping to keep air from becoming trapped under the vinyl.

TIP: If you still have bubbles or wrinkles, simply puncture the bubbles and press the air out the hole. You should press wrinkles firmly with the back of your fingernail, from the center outward to the edge. Try to spread out the wrinkle and redistribute the vinyl. Depending on how successful you are, you may be forced to put a clean slice in the middle and overlap the edges, or butt the edges together with a very careful cut.

Solution To: Bubbles in Larger Graphic (e.g. 10-Foot Graphic)

Again, not enough fluid used. Apply fluid liberally and squeegee-out with firm, point-of-pressure contact from center outwards to edges. Sometimes, a small dot of dish detergent on the wrinkled area (and none on the adjacent areas) can help work-out the wrinkle. Keep in mind that fluid on a vertical surface tends to run off, versus a flat surface. Also, spraying Decal-Graphic Solution on the glue side of the vinyl while peeling off the backing tape, in addition to liberal application of fluid to the surface, will help with larger graphics.

Solution To: Protective Cover Tape (Mask) Doesn't Release

When this occurs, it usually is the result of either old tape with a short shelf life or a high tac tape. Spray (wet) the cover tape with the same Decal-Graphic Solution fluid (after the vinyl is bonded to the surface). Let the Decal-Graphic Solution break the cover's grip on the vinyl prior to removing the cover. Allow to thoroughly soak the cover tape for 2-minutes - now, remove the cover by pulling tape back over itself at a 45 degree angle - if the cover does not remove, re-wet the tape and repeat procedure.

Solution To: Vinyl Flipping Up and Sticking To Itself, Resulting in Damaged Graphic

As you peel-off the backing tape from the vinyl, spray the Decal-Graphic Solution fluid (liberally) directly on the glue side - You can actually fold the treated vinyl, glue side to glue side and it will not stick!

 

Rust-Prep Rust Converter

Of course, read & follow directions all application steps on the label but … basically, this product is easy to use:

  1. Just wire brush to remove any loose rust scale or paint flakes - then clean surface with a water-based cleaner.
  2. Spray-on a light coat of Rust Prep… then …
  3. Wait 20 to 30 minutes for rust to convert to zinc phosphate … then …
  4. Wipe-off any powder residue that appears on the surface with a water-damp cloth or a very lightly buff with a fine scuff pad (Do not rinse residue with a water hose). Note: This powder residue is the mineral salts that actuated the rust process. Let dry thoroughly.
  5. Surface is now ready to be sealed, either with paint, primer/sealer or body filler. Note: must be sealed within 24 hours or surface rust may reoccur.
 

Aluma-1 Scratch-Free Wheel/Metal Polish

Basically, most metal polishes offer an older technology that achieves shine through the use of fine abrasive (e.g. jewelers rouge) - they offer either no protection (the shine is not long lasting, resulting in frequent re-applications!) or some protection by means of a second (or third!) product, plus additional application steps!

Aluma-1 Scratch-Free Wheel/Metal Polish achieves it's high luster by means of a unique advance in liquid chemical technology - in addition, the same formula (one product, one step!) contains special acrylic polymers that are deposited as a durable, optically clear coating that eliminates the time, expense and work of redoing the surface as often.

New Surfaces vs Older Surfaces in Bad Condition

Aluma-1 is primarily for a newer wheel or surface in good condition - it contains no acids, ammonia or grit that will scratch or damage a new wheel or finish. Older wheels (surfaces) in poor condition may require an abrasive to remove stains and restore luster.

For Wheel or Finish in BAD Condition: First, remove any crusty dirt etc., with detergent and water or wheel cleaner - Dry wheel thoroughly - then we recommend: Use 4-Ott (#0000) or finer - plain steel wool - along with Aluma-1 as directed to easily clean, shine and protect even the grungiest wheel! (Do Not Use Steel Wool On A New or Clear-Coated Wheel!) The truth is: there is simply no chemical compromise for both a new finish and an older stained finish - if it's new, abrasives will scratch - if old, abrasives may be necessary to remove stains. Aluma-1 alone or in conjunction with Extra-Fine Steel Wool achieves outstanding results!

Wet Application and Removal

Very Important! … Aluma-1 goes on wet … and must be removed while still wet as directed on the label. Do not allow Aluma-1 to dry before removing. When removed wet, all that remains is a long lasting, barrier shine.

Plastics, Fiberglass and Other Uses

Great for boats & airplanes: outperforms fiberglass polishes & fiberglass rubbing compounds, plus it seals the fiberglass (goes on wet, comes off wet) … Perfect for buffing-out hard plastics, especially with a buffing wheel: clears cloudy Lexan toppers & Lexan boat windows, cycle ferrings, tail-lights, spoilers etc. … Removes oxidized paint - removes paint scuffs (e.g. tree limb scuffs against fender), finger-nail scratches … Good on plastic hubcaps … With #0000 steel wool, even removes water spots from glass! … Great on: jewelry, counters, shower fixtures, guns, sporting equipment etc.

 

WOW: The Ultimate Polish

WOW works on any hard surface but … you must spray just a light mist on the surface (it's not a case where: a little bit works good, so more works better!) … Then spread product with a clean terry towel as per label directions (not a shop towel, which may contain incompatible residues, even if its been laundered).

Do not use WOW on a soft-waxed surface or oil-based wax surface. WOW is not compatible with oil and simply smears the soft wax around. Again, WOW is for hard surfaces, not soft (wax) surfaces. If humidity is especially high, cut back on application and use in sunlight.

Body Shop Uses

  • No silicones or wax - Works on fresh paint - Does not affect cure
  • Safe & effective on all paint finishes, including clear coats
  • Lubricates final glazes for a higher, brighter finish
  • Great after a fresh paint buff-out - Leaves rest of vehicle looking as good as area just repaired
  • Perfect substitute for silicone lubricants commonly used with over-spray clays
  • Non-abrasive/anti-static formula safely cleans window tint
  • One product sprays-on, wipes-off dust, finger and hand prints, smudges etc. on all exterior & interior hard surfaces
 

#357 Industrial Cleaner/Degreaser/Prep-Wash

Although #357 Industrial Cleaner/Degreaser is biodegradable and 100% environmentally safe, it is very strong. Read the entire label directions before using. Most cleaning jobs do not require using full strength - generally, only extreme conditions require full strength or a dilution of up to 2 to 3 parts with water.

Stubborn cleaning jobs can be overcome in one of 3 ways: 1) Use #357 full strength ... 2) Let #357 penetrate (soak) longer ... 3) Scrub surface briskly with nylon brush after soaking of #357.  Although #357 can be diluted with either cold or warm water, hot water and #357 produces spectacular cleaning results! #357 is quite effective with a steam cleaner or pressure washer, using either hot or cold water.

#357 has numerous marine uses. Because of its non-hazardous nature, #357 does not require Coast Guard certification for use in a ship's store, on board vessels, because its characteristics do not represent sufficient hazard to be considered a dangerous article under 46-PFA-141. #357 cleans marine sails, canvas, hardwood and metals safely and quickly. It is an excellent and totally safe bilge cleaner. It removes algae, fish oils and scum lines without harming aluminum, plastic, chrome or fiberglass surfaces.

Industrial uses for #357 are varied. It allows full utilization of plant manpower - dramatically reduces down time - allows hot work to continue in areas adjacent to those being cleaned with #357 - surfaces can be cleaned, gas freed and prepared for paints or coatings in the same application.

A few helpful dilutions: All-Purpose Cleaner: Use 1 part #357 to 40 parts water (3 oz. to a gallon of water).

Tree Sap (pine needle sap), Bugs On Paint Surface: Use a quart of #357 to 1 gallon of water. Wet a clean cloth, make one or two swipes with cloth and then immediately rinse thoroughly with clean water, then dry with a terri-cloth towel.

Stains From Rugs, Upholstery & Carpets: Use full strength or 1 part #357 to 3 to 1 part water. Spray on & blot up the stain. Next, use nylon brush or towels, for finishing touches. Always start with a light solution & then add more #357 if it seems needed to do the job.

Paint Over-Spray From Vehicle: If vehicle paint is 1 year or older, use #357 full strength. Pour #357 onto towel, wipe-off over-spray, then rinse thoroughly with clean water, then dry with a terri-cloth towel.

Prep Wash - Fish Eye Preventative: Mix 1 part #357 to 4 or 5 parts water. Mist (spray) on surface - let soak for 30 to 60 seconds for oxidation; 4 to 6 minutes for polymer sealants. Wipe with water and rinse. Dry with a clean cloth. Surface is now ready to paint or polish.

Call: (800) 545-8624 for free Automotive, Industrial, Marine & Household "Use & General Dilution Chart"

 

 

 

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